KnowltonBaugh162

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stone wall cladding - Stone is a defining feature in almost any room and adds instant solidity, luxury and grandness whether you decide to cover all your walls with marble or perhaps use it for a simple round basin. Although stone is definitely an tough material once installed, the self -builder should always take special care to see the delivery and installation process runs smoothly. Dirt from visitors or a careless knock from a power tool could lead to a costly repair bill. Keep the room clean and tidy, check larger items such as a stone bath, can fit through a door entrance (you may want to leave off architrave/frames to allow extra room). The weight of stonework does mean that it should be planned in in the home's design stage as load-bearing joists may need to be increased in proportions or even doubled approximately cope with the weight.

Preparing floors

A new concrete screed is the perfect base for stone floor tiles, as long as the concrete is fully cured. New concrete should be at least six weeks old and show no signs of remaining moisture. You may have to use a thin screed of self-leveling compound to smooth out any low spots. Again, leave the compound to totally cure before tiling.

If you are working on new flooring grade T&G chipboard panels, double check the edges are fixed at 300mm centers and tile onto the surface with a flexible adhesive all the trade adhesive manufacturers have powder mixes designed for timber flooring. For any restoration project, never attempt to tile directly onto old floorboards. Instead, create a new sub-base with 15mm exterior grade plywood, screwed down at 300mm centers with stainless screws. Stagger the board joints and adjust any uneven floorboards before starting work. Coat it's with thinned PVA to seal the wood.

Old cork and vinyl carpeting should always be pulled up. Look into the floor beneath is dry, flat and robust enough to support the brand new stone tiling. If you're confronted with quarry or ceramic tiles, it's possible to tile directly over the surface as long as there isn't any signs of damp, cracking or movement. Prime the existing tile surface to offer the adhesive a key' for bonding to make set out your new tiles so the grout gaps aren't aligned with all the existing floor. The exceptions are shower or wet room walls that should be lined with a waterproof lining panel to provide the tile base.

Installing real stone tiles

The porous the surface of many natural stone products makes them more vulnerable to staining than glazed tiles. Look at the manufacturer's instructions for precise laying instructions and try to seal the surfaces from the tiles, if recommended, before fixing it's too easy to spill adhesive over a tile and not notice. Open the tile packs and work from several packs to evenly distribute any color variation between packs.

Tiling the ground

With a little planning and careful setting out, dramatic stone flooring can be as easy as tiling a wall. There's usually less cutting around awkward shapes compared to wall tiles and you are not fighting against gravity. Remove skirting boards and door thresholds prior to starting work. In the setting out stages, it's important to ensure the tiles look completely from the entrance to the room. Often walls are bowed or from true so check your measurements in many places along each wall. It is slightly more but a powder mix rapid-setting adhesive is the best option for most floors. It will reach full strength after as little as 24 hours so the remaining portion of the build isn't delayed.

Finally, plan in any movement joints required. These are 6/8mm wide and filled with flexible filler that allows for movement and prevents tile damage. These joints are normally installed where flooring abuts walling, steps, columns or another hard objects on large floor areas as well as over structural movement joints. Floors under four meters between walls is not going to normally need movement joints.

STEP-BY-STEP

1 Get the mid-points of the two longest walls and snap a chalk line throughout the room between these points. Repeat for your shorter walls but adjust the line so that it passes from the center of the first line at right angles. Attempt to work with as many whole tiles as possible, even if it means adjusting the grout line width slightly.

2 Lay tiles over the two lines to check if they look right from the doorway. If any gaps at the walls are fewer than half a tile wide, shift the road across to make much more of a gap. Also move the guide lines so that tiles around a dominant feature (e.g. a fire or French windows) are symmetrical and there are whole tiles at the doorway.

3 Spread about one square meter of tile adhesive/grout into one of many right angles created by the two crossing chalk lines. Scrap the notched side of the trowel across the mix to make ridges of the same thickness.

4 Lay the initial tiles along the edge of the longest center line. Gently press the tiles into place, making sure they also fall into line with the other center line. Add plastic spacers at each corner to keep them the identical distance apart for grouting.

5 Work outwards from your middle of the room until you have laid all the whole tiles on one half of the floor. Make use of a spirit level to determine the tiles are at exactly the same level. Now move across towards the other side of the longest center line and add the remainder of the whole tiles. Leave to set for 24 hours.

6 Make use of the tile cutter to trim the advantage tiles to the right shape. Look at the space at each side in case the walls are uneven please remember to allow for the grouting gap. Always wear goggles and gloves when cutting tiles.

7 Leave the adhesive setting for at least 12 hours, then grout involving the tiles with the adhesive/grout. Force a combination into the gaps with a squeegee, working from side to side or more and down the tiles.

8 For wide joint lines, operate a piece of hosepipe over the grouting surface. Wipe off any grout from your tiles with a damp sponge, before it sets hard.

Wall tiling

Gemstone tiles add a touch of luxury to your rooms. There's no special trick to finding out how many tiles you will need, just measure the height and width with the area and multiply these together to give the area to be tiled. Divide this figure by the area of a single tile (e.g. a 10x10cm tile posseses an area of 100cm) to give the amount of tiles you need. Add 10 percent for cutting and wastage. Installation is equivalent to for ceramic tiles however, you will need an electric tile cutter having a diamond wheel and the capacity to tackle your chosen depth of tile. Most natural stone is easier to chop than ceramic. The extra weight of real stone should also be considered use strong battens, at least 50mm wide and screwed to the wall, to support the base line of tiles.

Work with a saw tile to reduce a tile to match around an awkward shape for instance a pipe or architrave. If you need to cut a curve, to fit around the side of your basin for example, create a card template the identical size as the tile. Make cuts about 10mm spacing along the curve edge and press web site into position. Trim the 10mm strips to match exactly around the curve and transfer this shape to the tile. Make sure to leave at least 2mm for grouting.

STEP-BY-STEP

1 To prevent lots of cut tiles or perhaps an unbalanced look, constitute a tile gauge (a batten with the tile dimensions and grout spaces marked across the edge) to plan the positions of the tiles so that the tops from the last row of tiles under any window will be exactly flush with the ledge. You may find you'll have to cut the bottom row of tiles.

2 Screw a batten towards the wall along the line you've got marked. Check with a spirit level that it is horizontal. Fix an additional upright batten along the left side of the area to be tiled. Again, use a spirit level to make sure it's vertical.

3 Spread the adhesive/grout over about half a square meter from the wall, starting in the corner made by the two battens. Use the notched side with the spreader to form even ribbons of adhesive. This is especially important for heavy stone tiles. As a rule of thumb, 6mm notched spreaders are used for walls and 10mm versions for floors.

4 Learn to tile, pressing the tiles gently onto the wall and sliding into position until you see adhesive squeeze out round the sides. Press spacers into each corner and hold a spirit level over the tiles to see if they form an appartment surface. Continue to tile, taking care of about a square meter at the same time until you've fixed every one of the whole tiles. Clean off adhesive in the tile surface as you work.

5 Next, lay tiles along the sides and front of the window reveal in order that they cover the edges of the wall tiles. Wipe off any adhesive before it's dried with a damp sponge.

6 Leave the splashback to dry fully before taking out the timber battens. Now cut the tiles to suit into any gaps at the end of the splashback and at the front and sides of the window reveal. Fix in position.

7 When all the tiles are fixed, leave to dry. Force more adhesive/grout into the gaps between the tiles having a squeegee. Wipe off all of the excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsed out regularly in clean water. When the surface is dry, polish with a dry cloth.

8 To form a flexible waterproof seal new tiles and a worktop, run a bead of waterproof sealant across the bottom of the tiles.

TIPS

If you're tiling around an acrylic bath, half fill with water to create the rim flex to its maximum extent before filling the space with a bathroom sealant.

Make screw holes for bathroom accessories using a masonry drill bit. To prevent the bit slipping and damaging the outer lining, stick some masking tape within the area to be drilled.

Buy every one of the tiles you will need at once if possible to avoid any differences between batches.

In order to form a pattern, draw a plan of the room on graph paper to make sure the pattern can look in proportion and symmetrical.

To tile a space that has to be used everyday, tile one half of the area at any given time so you can still walk over the bare floor as the tile adhesive sets. If you learn you are working slowly and the adhesive is beginning setting, only spread around half a square meter at the same time. It's essential the adhesive remains wet when the tiles are now being fixed.

Fireplaces

Stone Fireplaces are a defining feature to get a lounge or living area, making the perfect frame to a wood, coal or gas fire. Obviously, any chimney linings ought to be pre-installed in your self-build project and also the surround really does come in the final stages with the project. Most companies offer a design and install service that's definitely worth the money for such large and expensive objects. Otherwise, check your builder is happy to defend myself against the job. It may need extra lifting equipment but the installation process isn't complicated. You are able to choose anything from the clean lines of a contemporary fireplace with a reproduction Regency style or contact an architectural salvage yard for any genuine period piece. Most yards will even undertake restoration work with stone and marble fireplaces.

Baths and basins

Baths, basins and washstands could be either stone resin or solid stone. There exists a wide range of colors available from off-whites to reds, browns and blacks. Remember the loading over a suspended floor baths can weigh from 200 to 500kg or even more.

As well as the luxury of a solid stone basin, a number of the modern designs may also be breathtaking, with open wave forms, travertine mosaic and deceptively thin slab designs.

Worktops

Granite is regarded as the popular of the natural stonework surfaces. It's easy to clean and contrasts well with lighter wood carcases. Marble and limestone look good but are softer and will scratch or stain. Whenever you plan your kitchen, make sure the runs of floor cabinets can withstands weights as much as 90kgs per square meter average for a 30mm solid granite top. You can also specify 40mm tops, produced from two 20mm layers having a ply central insert to lessen the weight. Your kitchen supplier should alter the design and add extra support around sink cut-outs and appliances. The suppliers may also need a clear work area so all sinks and hobs should be removed and kept away from the work area. If you can, don't install the wall sockets until after the worktop is fitted this will avoid any accidental damage as the stone is slid into position over the units. With respect to the shape and size of each factor, the suppliers may suggest extra joints in solid granite worktops because the grain structure can be extremely vulnerable to cracking if there's any stress over longer lengths or around narrow cut-out areas. Make sure you order matching granite up-stands

for that walls. These are around 100m high with polished surfaces and edges. Color-matched silicone sealant is utilized for the jointing. As with sanitary items, composite quartzite is able to reduce the price of the kitchen but still give some of the solidity and feel of your real stone. Additionally, it has the advantage of grain consistency and a wide range of solid reds, blues, greens plus more neutral tones.

Cleaning and maintenance

stone wall - Keep a copy from the care and maintenance instructions given your stonework as sealants and care procedures vary. Granite surfaces for example worktops don't need a lot of specialist cleaning because the surface doesn't absorb stains in the same way as a softer travertine stone.

Wipe up any spills as fast as possible, especially liquids including acidic juices and alcohol. Fine grit is the big enemy of gemstone flooring as ground in particles cause striations than eventually dull the outer lining. Use a mop, soft brush or vacuum to collect up the dirt. A neutral pH detergent and hot water will remove grease as well as other light stains but make sure the floor is dried using a soft cloth to avoid a film build of residues.

Stone should just have resealing every 3-5 years approximately and some products will not need resealing. After installing any natural stone, it's essential to clean up any mortar/adhesive residue right away as the resin-based adhesives bond' the stone surface and so are extremely difficult to clean up when cured. For kitchen and bathroom installations, avoid using any wax or soap cleaners not less than the first six weeks. Otherwise, the stone pores will end up clogged and restrict the evaporation in the mortar/adhesive.