TutenLynn986
出典: くみこみックス
stone wall cladding - Stone is a defining feature in a room and adds instant solidity, luxury and grandness whether you determine to cover all your walls with marble or perhaps use it for a simple round basin. Although stone is an extremely tough material once installed, the self -builder must always take special care to see the delivery and installation process runs smoothly. Dirt from traffic or a careless knock from a power tool could lead to an expensive repair bill. Keep the room clean and tidy, check larger items like a stone bath, can fit by way of a door entrance (you may need to leave off architrave/frames to permit extra room). The weight of stonework entails that it should be planned in at the home's design stage as load-bearing joists might need to be increased in proportions or even doubled approximately cope with the weight.
Preparing floors
A brand new concrete screed is the perfect base for stone flooring, as long as the concrete is fully cured. New concrete should be at least six weeks old and show no indications of remaining moisture. You may need to use a thin screed of self-leveling compound to even out any low spots. Again, leave the compound to fully cure before tiling.
If you're working on new flooring grade T&G chipboard panels, check the edges are fixed at 300mm centers and tile onto the surface with a flexible adhesive all the trade adhesive manufacturers have powder mixes intended for timber flooring. To get a restoration project, never try and tile directly onto old floorboards. Instead, produce a new sub-base with 15mm exterior grade plywood, screwed down at 300mm centers with stainless steel screws. Stagger the board joints and adjust any uneven floorboards prior to starting work. Coat it's with thinned PVA to seal the wood.
Old cork and vinyl floor covering should always be pulled up. Look at the floor beneath is dry, flat and robust enough to support the new stone tiling. If you're faced with quarry or ceramic tiles, it's possible to tile directly within the surface as long as there aren't any signs of damp, cracking or movement. Prime that old tile surface to give the adhesive a key' for bonding to make set out your new tiles so the grout gaps aren't aligned with the existing floor. The exceptions are shower or wet room walls that should be lined with a waterproof lining panel to provide the tile base.
Installing real stone tiles
The porous the surface of many natural stone products means they are more vulnerable to staining than glazed tiles. Look into the manufacturer's instructions for precise laying instructions and try to seal the surfaces of the tiles, if recommended, before fixing it's too easy to spill adhesive on the tile and not notice. Open the tile packs and work from the 3 major packs to evenly distribute any color variation between packs.
Tiling the ground
With a little planning and careful starting off, dramatic stone flooring can be as easy as tiling a wall. There's usually less cutting around awkward shapes than with wall tiles and you're simply not fighting against gravity. Remove skirting boards and door thresholds prior to starting work. In the aiming stages, it's important to ensure the tiles look completely from the entrance to the room. Often walls are bowed or away from true so check your measurements in many places along each wall. It costs slightly more but a powder mix rapid-setting adhesive is the better option for most floors. It will reach full strength within 24 hours so the rest of the build isn't delayed.
Finally, plan in almost any movement joints required. They are 6/8mm wide and full of flexible filler which allows for movement and prevents tile damage. These joints are normally installed where flooring abuts walling, steps, columns or any other hard objects on large floor areas and also over structural movement joints. Floors less than four meters between walls is not going to normally need movement joints.
STEP-BY-STEP
1 Find the mid-points of the two longest walls and snap a chalk line throughout the room between these points. Repeat for your shorter walls but adjust the line so that it passes with the center of the first line at right angles. Make an effort to work with as many whole tiles as you can, even if it means adjusting the grout line width slightly.
2 Lay tiles across the two lines to check if they look right from the doorway. If any gaps at the walls are less than half a tile wide, shift the fishing line across to make much more of a gap. Also move the guide lines in order that tiles around a dominant feature (e.g. a hearth or French windows) are symmetrical there are whole tiles in the doorway.
3 Spread about one square meter of tile adhesive/grout into among the right angles produced by the two crossing chalk lines. Scrap the notched side of the trowel across the mix to form ridges of the same thickness.
4 Lay the initial few tiles along the edge of the longest center line. Gently press the tiles into place, making sure they also lineup with the other center line. Add plastic spacers at each and every corner to keep them exactly the same distance apart for grouting.
5 Work outwards from your middle of the room til you have laid all the whole tiles on a single half of the floor. Use a spirit level to look for the tiles are at the same level. Now move across for the other side of the longest center line and add the remainder of the whole tiles. Leave setting for 24 hours.
6 Make use of the tile cutter to trim the extra edge tiles to the right shape. Measure the space at each side in case the walls are uneven and don't forget to allow for the grouting gap. Always wear goggles and gloves when cutting tiles.
7 Leave the adhesive setting for at least 12 hours, then grout between the tiles with the adhesive/grout. Force the mix into the gaps with a squeegee, working from side to side or over and down the tiles.
8 For wide joint lines, manage a piece of hosepipe over the grouting surface. Wipe off any grout from your tiles with a damp sponge, before it sets hard.
Wall tiling
Stone tiles add a touch of luxury to your rooms. There's no special trick to locating out how many tiles you will need, just measure the height and width with the area and multiply these together to give the area to be tiled. Divide this figure from the area of a single tile (e.g. a 10x10cm tile comes with an area of 100cm) to give the quantity of tiles you need. Add Ten percent for cutting and wastage. Installation matches for ceramic tiles but you will need an electric tile cutter having a diamond wheel as well as the capacity to tackle your selected depth of tile. Most basic stone is easier to reduce than ceramic. The additional weight of real stone ought to be considered use strong battens, no less than 50mm wide and screwed for the wall, to support the base line of tiles.
Use a saw tile to reduce a tile to suit around an awkward shape like a pipe or architrave. If you need to cut a curve, to suit around the side of the basin for example, produce a card template the same size as the tile. Make cuts about 10mm spacing along the curve edge and press the template into position. Trim the 10mm strips to suit exactly around the curve and transfer this fit around the tile. Be sure you leave at least 2mm for grouting.
STEP-BY-STEP
1 To prevent lots of cut tiles or an unbalanced look, make up a tile gauge (a batten with all the tile dimensions and grout spaces marked over the edge) to plan the positions from the tiles so that the tops of the last row of tiles under any window is going to be exactly flush with all the ledge. You may find you will have to cut the bottom row of tiles.
2 Screw a batten towards the wall along the line you've got marked. Check with a spirit level that it's horizontal. Fix another upright batten along the left side from the area to be tiled. Again, work with a spirit level to make sure it's vertical.
3 Spread the adhesive/grout over most a square meter with the wall, starting inside the corner made by the 2 battens. Use the notched side with the spreader to form even ribbons of adhesive. Many of the important for heavy stone tiles. As a rule of thumb, 6mm notched spreaders bring walls and 10mm versions for floors.
4 Begin to tile, pressing the tiles gently on the wall and sliding into position unless you see adhesive squeeze out across the sides. Press spacers into each corner and hold a spirit level throughout the tiles to see if they form a flat surface. Continue to tile, taking care of about a square meter at a time until you've fixed every one of the whole tiles. Clean off adhesive from your tile surface while you work.
5 Next, lay tiles along the sides and front with the window reveal so that they cover the edges of the wall tiles. Wipe off any adhesive before it's got dried with a damp sponge.
6 Leave the splashback to dry fully before detaching the timber battens. Now cut the tiles to fit into any gaps at the end of the splashback and at leading and sides from the window reveal. Fix in place.
7 When all the tiles are fixed, leave to dry. Force more adhesive/grout in to the gaps between the tiles with a squeegee. Wipe off every one of the excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsed out regularly in clean water. When the surface is dry, polish having a dry cloth.
8 To make a flexible waterproof seal new tiles and a worktop, run a bead of waterproof sealant across the bottom of the tiles.
TIPS
If you are tiling around an acrylic bath, half fill with water to produce the rim flex to the maximum extent before filling the gap with a bathroom sealant.
Make screw holes for bathroom accessories using a masonry drill bit. To stop the bit slipping and damaging the outer lining, stick some masking tape on the area to be drilled.
Buy every one of the tiles you will need at once if possible to avoid any differences between batches.
In order to form a pattern, draw a plan of the room on graph paper to ensure the pattern can look in proportion and symmetrical.
To tile an area that has to be used everyday, tile half of the area at any given time so you can still walk throughout the bare floor even though the tile adhesive sets. If you learn you are working slowly as well as the adhesive is beginning to create, only spread around half a square meter at any given time. It's essential the adhesive continues to be wet when the tiles are now being fixed.
Fireplaces
Stone Fireplaces certainly are a defining feature for a lounge or dining area, making the perfect frame to a wood, coal or gas fire. Needless to say, any chimney linings should be pre-installed in your self-build project and the surround really does come on the final stages of the project. Most companies offer a design and install service that's well worth the money for such large and dear objects. Otherwise, look at builder is happy to defend myself against the job. It may need extra lifting equipment however the installation process isn't complicated. It is possible to choose anything from the clean lines of a contemporary fireplace to some reproduction Regency style or contact an architectural salvage yard for any genuine period piece. Most yards may also undertake restoration focus on stone and marble fireplaces.
Baths and basins
Baths, basins and washstands may be either stone resin or solid stone. There's a wide range of colors available from off-whites to reds, browns and blacks. Keep in mind the loading over a suspended floor baths can weigh from 200 to 500kg or maybe more.
As well as the luxury of a solid stone basin, a number of the modern designs can also be breathtaking, with open wave forms, travertine mosaic and deceptively thin slab designs.
Worktops
Granite is the most popular of the natural stonework surfaces. It's easy to clean and contrasts well with lighter wood carcases. Marble and limestone look nice but are softer and can scratch or stain. When you plan your kitchen, make sure the runs of floor cabinets can withstands weights as much as 90kgs per square meter average for a 30mm solid granite top. You may also specify 40mm tops, produced from two 20mm layers having a ply central insert to lessen the weight. Your kitchen supplier might need to alter the design and add extra support around sink cut-outs and appliances. The suppliers will also need a clear workshop so all sinks and hobs needs to be removed and kept clear of the work area. If you can, don't install the wall sockets until following your worktop is fitted this may avoid any accidental damage as the stone is slid into position over the units. Depending on the shape and size of each element, the suppliers may suggest extra joints in solid granite worktops because the grain structure can be extremely vulnerable to cracking if there's any stress over longer lengths or around narrow cut-out areas. Don't forget to order matching granite up-stands
for the walls. These are around 100m high with polished surfaces and edges. Color-matched silicone sealant is used for the jointing. As with sanitary items, composite quartzite can reduce the price of the kitchen but nonetheless give some of the solidity and feel of the real stone. It also has the advantage of grain consistency and a wide range of solid reds, blues, greens plus more neutral tones.
Cleaning and maintenance
stone wall - Keep a copy from the care and maintenance instructions supplied with your stonework as sealants and care procedures vary. Granite surfaces including worktops don't need an excessive amount of specialist cleaning as the surface doesn't absorb stains in the same manner as a softer travertine stone.
Wipe up any spills as fast as possible, especially liquids for example acidic juices and alcohol. Fine grit will be the big enemy of natural stone flooring as ground in particles cause striations than eventually dull the top. Use a mop, soft brush or vacuum to get up the dirt. A neutral pH detergent and hot water will remove grease along with other light stains but ensure the floor is dried having a soft cloth to prevent a film build of residues.
Stone should really need resealing every 3-5 years roughly and some products will never need resealing. After installing any natural stone, it's essential to clean up any mortar/adhesive residue right away as the resin-based adhesives bond' the stone surface and therefore are extremely difficult to clean up when cured. For kitchen and bathroom installations, avoid using any wax or soap cleaners not less than the first six weeks. Otherwise, the stone pores will become clogged and restrict the evaporation from the mortar/adhesive.
